I remember being at a party at an indoor swimming pool venue where the dj’s would all play house and techno but they played this track to close night. Crazy.

There was a time I used Plex with PlexAmp for music, pretty sure it kept stats

This is pretty much the step I need to get back to listening to my own music rather than streaming. Can it plugin to ‘offline’ apps?

I think I saw a post by the admin saying there were some issues and you had to ‘follow’ them to get new content

I use Portainer.

Can you not see in the activity log, either of HA itself or of the device, what is causing the action to be carried out? You could go to the device and check which automations the device is part of and check their traces as well, if you have recollection of when this last happened.

If it is a backlog of stuff, maybe restart Home Assistant, or better yet, the server itself. But it shouldn’t be sending those to other devices.

What’s also possible is that something is up with the electricity in your home. Maybe these devices are getting power surges or cutouts and defaulting to whatever you have that Power On setting set to. I think the default setting is that devices like that go back on after power loss.

Last thing I can think of is an errant Zigbee controller. Maybe it’s picking up Bluetooth or WoFi signal interference and sending garbled messages to anything that’ll listen.

Or someone outside is trying to mess with you but without physical access to your Zigbee hub this is next to impossible.

Got it running at playable frame rate, just by lowering the definition of ‘playable’!

I can see how the oxygen thing gets frustrating in some early points in the game, but at some point it really doesn’t matter much anymore. You’d either never die from it anyway or ride a Stingray everywhere.

In 4 they did the same flying mechanics but without the oxygen which is kind of cool.

Considering the raging success of Borderlands 2, I feel like TPS was more than serviceable. It was received quite badly, even though the gameplay was the same as 2 and the story was at least 65% as good as 2. Maybe the playable characters were not as great. But the world was very well crafted and I actually loved the way the Eridian arc was so much more present, even though there is no Siren character.

I’m currently doing 4. It feels like a soft hommage to the first game, but it also has some references to TPS. But it also feels like it was made for people who don’t even know there are previous games. Of course, the ones who played the original are maybe outside the target demographic, which was already the case with 3 going by the villains of that game.

In short: I still love all Borderlands games equally and The PreSequel is definitely up there!

I assume the edges are still sharp as fuark. The little nubs aren’t the issue. They might even be kinda nice

Know that feeling of stepping on a LEGO brick? How about you do that all the time in the stylings of Crocs? It’s a lose-lose!

I gave away my G2 to my nephew a while ago. I commandeered it back because of the Oasis driver but it’s at my mom’s house now and I’ll likely get it somewhere in January.

I played the ultimate edition a while ago and I was very impressed. One of the best games I’ve played in a while.

‘Big’ is relative. It’s a house in between two left and one right in a block of four. It’s big enough for two people, but it’s not huge.

I’m not sure I understand the function of the buffer mentioned. Is it a heated buffer that can pump around hot water without having to expend gas to heat? How does that differ from the expansion vat I have? Is that just to soak up excess pressure?

Sorry about all the questions, I’m just not sure about all of this stuff.

English is not my first language and although I can kinda get my point across, technical jargon is a bit of a blind spot. So just to clarify: I have a little vat of say 10 liters connected to the heating pipes. It’s next to the boiler. It contains a rubber membrane in the middle to expand if pressure builds. Is this the type of buffer you’re referring to?

There is only one TRV in the living room because the other valves are not thermostatic. I would need to replace those to achieve what you describe. But then I think that’s not the way to go because it could damage the pump from what I hear.

The boiler is a Remeha Tzerra Ace which supports Opentherm with modulation. It’s also wired on the opentherm contacts and the T6 supports it.

Ah no there is one of those expansion vats in between. It’s not huge but it doesn’t need to be.

The issue I’m trying to solve is to heat a room upstairs whilst not having the boiler in a constant ‘on’ state (the main thermostat is modulating and uses OpenTherm to communicate but that’s beside the point).

A use case: say I’m going to work in my room upstairs. It’s currently 18°C. The living room, where my main thermostat is, is 18°C. I have my coffee in the living room, causing my automation to recognize I’m in the living room.

I move up to my room and set my comfort temp to 20°C. The thermostat in the living room adapts to that. So does the TRV in my office. Since the setpoint of the main is higher than the measured room temp, it sends a heating request to the boiler. One of the radiators in the living room is closed, since the presence detector don’t show occupation in the living room.

In this case, my office might not make it to 20°C before the living room does. The pump stops and no newly hot water gets sent to my office even though the valve is open.

Bottom line: with the current blueprint I mentioned, everything works moderately well. What I want to avoid is to have the boiler heating water if the only occupied room is already at its setpoint. What I want to achieve is more control over when the boiler should heat water (and also pump it around) so that I don’t have to heat the living room when heating, say, the bedroom.

Oh and as far as the time between presence sensing and heating goes: I’m fine being a little chilly for ten minutes. Like I said, I keep every room at a minimum of 18°C to make sure it never takes too long to heat if I want it.

I considered this when getting my TRVs but I prefer it to be Zigbee. Also I’m not planning to substitute all my current TRVs for different ones, that’ll be a costly operation. I think if I was looking for a closed (ie one manufacturer) system I might lean towards Tado or maybe PlugWise.

Thanks for the suggestion!

Is it? Team Group predicts this is just the start and it’s going to get much worse.

Behind the scenes deals are being made between Samsung/SK Hynix and all the AI companies and the focus will not be to produce consumer DRAM