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I think you’re right in some cases, but also somewhat attributing malice to stupidity. There are primitive people that are far too scared to risk abandoning their mutually exclusive social support network. They exhibit angst at the unknown and unfamiliar and sway in the direction of fight from their fight or flight mechanism. None of this behavior is within the scope of their self awareness. They exist in a fixated cult like state of tribal ignorance and stupidity, and are wholely incapable of curiosity and learning from sources outside the scope of their tribal isolation.

I was this way before my self awareness grew past the point of reflection. My entire family is like this as are my former and abandoned social support network I am now ostracized from as a result.

This is the actual barrier in place that enables cult like isolation and fixation. Meanwhile, these systems are wholly built upon outsourcing ethics to an organization that only wields shame to keep members in line. Shame can never motivate positive action. Shame can only negatively curb behaviors. Without positive feedback, these systems can only produce depression and negative austere conservative people able to cope with the lack of endorphins. It is truly sadistic in nature. Those that are still out of balance are considered undesirable when their cognitive dissonance pushes back in actions the person may not even understand or register.

Religion is largely a cognitive dissonance factory because of these factors. This does not excuse actions that harm others. But it is this antiquated system of subtle harm in the religious tribal structure and its cult like exclusivity of social network isolation that create people with no independent ethics, unable to learn and reason well, and scared of everything outside of their tiny bubble of a life.

Sure, you can send me a nas with drives and another network switch, wiring, and pay for labor to run it, while setting it up to work with my hardware and firewall. I have no interest in these projects to support something maybe useful to you but that I already know. I’d rather just do what I do now and keep it to myself. I’m physically disabled with no meaningful income. Gatekeep your hobby and financial position all you’d like, but **** your random prejudiced negative vitriol towards strangers.

Not necessarily. Like I don’t have my YT stuff stored anywhere any more.

Shorter format stuff – sure, and that seems to be the only focus really for peertube now. Most of the YT stuff I posted was like bits and pieces of my journey of creating a product photography studio and progress I was making while still in my collar with a broken neck. I also made electrical hobby and bicycle stuff. I typically uploaded long format with 20-40 minutes detailing what I tried and what did or did not work when fixing stuff that is supposed to be unserviceable or undocumented and like reverse engineering type content. Some of those proved to be a reference I used many years later. My digital storage has never been at a very high quality level. Most of my motivation is like here on Lemmy; I want to share and just be a little social while maybe providing some useful tidbit that helps someone. I’d rather relegate that digital archiving to someone else mostly because my life has never been well supported or super stable.

We probably need to also get more of us actually uploading to peertube and posting stuff here with better integration.

First step is streamlining account creation and uploading. Is there a post goto for how to sign up? What servers are stable versus maybe not so much? Really useful video content is a major undertaking for technically useful stuff. I did several on YT in the past and some in the hundreds of thousands of views about how to fix or hack stuff where I was the only source posted. Editing something well is at least 1 hour per minute, and twice that with a good setup and recording. So like, I’d be far more bummed if that stuff got lost by instances disappearing. That is probably the biggest hesitation I have had. IMO, useful original content is the holy grail for this kind of thing, or maybe that is just my perspective bias.

I’m no help, but more out of curiosity, why not run a container for OpenGL 3.2 or a flatpak/snap or just the older version?

Edit: oh you probably mean the physical hardware is not supported for some reason, and I’m thinking at the OS level

Voron carries the original community torch that started all of this with RepRap and Adrian Bowyer. That is not some minor guerilla thing around Voron specifically. It grew out of the era when Prusa started making excuses and doing anti community stuff. Like they are still great, but not for the same reasons that built them. You can’t build Prusa firmware and mod it easily like with a Marlin config or Klipper. And the Mini is a custom hacked Marlin config that looks nothing like Marlin at all. That killed community contributions and the iterative nature of open source. The offshoots and side projects of Voron used to exist around Prusa and were around RepRap before that. Joseph got his start with RepRap selling kits on the side. That is where the MKx nomenclature comes from.

Adrian Bowyer broke what was a stratasys commercial monopoly and singlehandedly built the open source community and entire hobby. If Adrian did not exist, there would be no hobby 3d printing at all. The whole thing is due to this open source project and the community it built. That is why Bambu is hated so much. They are a stratasys like parasite here to exploit and oppress as a capitalist cancer. They are the ultimate type of leopard eating face buy.

As them out on a date first

Cheapest Chinese Bluetooth headphones from AliEx around 2019. I think it is an AC6905 chip. The toolchain is rather obscure and piecemeal with write-ups on GitHub and eevblog, but that is beyond my interest. This one was too weak to be useful or one of the audio drivers went out or wire was bad. I have a half dozen of these sports ear buds style headphones that have gone bad over the last decade. Even ones that come from the same brand end up having different boards.

It does what Bluetooth headphones do but with regular headphones. More usefully, it is a Bluetooth line-output to plug into an amplifier which is what I am actually working on. This will go into an amplifier that can connect to my laptop and is integrated into my bedside laptop stand (I’m physically disabled so in bed most of the time). I’m working on making several parts of my laptop stand more modular. I want this to be removable to use elsewhere if I want and charged when not in use. It therefore has a use, a place of storage, and is always available.

Yeah, then 2 parts and a gap is best. If you are not using Mesh WB, do so and manually mesh stuff. The default export mesh resolution is quite course by comparison.

If you go to the Draft Workbench, there is a special Clone tool there and only there. Clones made in Draft can be resized in the data tab. This is super useful for creating offsets.

What I’m talking about with ‘alignment of parts so that they can be imported’ has more to do with complex assemblies. If you transform a Part Design body, and then build your thing in multiple bodies, they will be meshed in the local origin of the body’s 0,0 coordinate plane. I do this kind of thing a lot. I use a Part Design sketches/bodies/parts workflow almost exclusively. I have to be conscientious of building both parts on the same 0,0 origin.

So with inserts like I was mentioning before, think like the Prusa parts prints for the LCD surround on their printers where they are printing the letters in recessed voids.

Second, – a completely different technique. Think about how you can print a part and setup a void and pause in the middle of printing to insert a bearing or nut, then continue the print, thus embedding the object into the print.

Third, let’s combine these two concepts. You print the recessed lettering and a small void behind it, like with the Prusa print plus a void, and then add a pause to the print. Now you take another print that is only the positive lettering and small backing material. You insert this print as you would with a nut or bearing inserted into the paused print and continue the print. You could print the insert at the same time on the same build plate or print it separate in advance. This method also allows you to mix first layer bed textures, filament materials, or even patterns you design into the lettering to be inserted. Like you can print on glass and have gloss smooth lettering inserted into a print on a course bed texture. Or, look up CNC Kitchen’s guide on printing nearly optically clear PETG by fine tuning the settings. Then you can create lettering that can be lit from behind.

If you have trouble with first layer crispness, print the lettering face up and use ironing to get a flatter crisper edge.

Someone else mentioned a 0.2mm nozzle. They are not as slow as one might imagine. If you’ve never tried it, get one. I have a 0.25 and really like it. I use 0.6mm most of the time, but the 0.25mm is not just for cosmetic details. It will really push your understanding of wall thickness and infill strength. With Prusament PC blend, a 0.25mm nozzle is a lot of fun for designing small and putting materials only where they are needed. If you learn to use the Lattice 2 workbench for creating patterns, things get even more fun as you can skip infill all together and start creating more intentional structures in patterns quickly without bogging down FreeCAD. It is fun to transition into design-thinking in terms of single wall shells and connections. That is one step away from an intuitive grasp of flexures and compliant mechanisms. Like my present little Bluetooth enclosure design uses the flex of curved walls and the thickness of material to press a little dome button on the center of a PCB inside. I didn’t make any cutouts or separate parts to actuate. It is just the flex of the design. I spent today getting it ready to print with a 0.25mm nozzle and clear PETG too. Anyways, GL and happy printing.

Make two separate parts in CAD. You can join them as separate shapes in a Parts Workbench compound or using the Mesh Workbench tools. Then upload the meshed file into the slicer. Empirically tune the gaps to suit your printer.

Just be absolutely sure that the two parts do not overlap in some intersection. The slicer will absolutely try to print twice in the same place.

Personally, I like to use manual inserts or layer changes. Print your text separately in one color. Recess the text in negative for a few layers. Then add a print pause where you drop the lettering into the designed voids and continue the print, letting the voids and bridging bond the inserted letters.

I was messing with a similar issue with my laptop GPU cover design from a few weeks ago. I wanted the layers to separate between the patterns and how the slicer was pathing . I did a bunch of tests and still need to print a final version but uploading the first layer as multiple compounded meshes is the solution.

If you design the 0,0 location of the parts so that they import into PS already aligned but as separate meshes, you can also use the elephants foot or other unique settings to manipulate how each section prints.

There is certainly validity in the concept that no known instance of exploitation exists. However that is only anecdotal. The potential exists. Naïve trust in others has a terrible track record on these scales of ethics. Every instruction and register should be fully documented for every product sold.

An adequate webp image is only a few tens of kilobytes. Most people now have a bridged connection between their home network and cellular, unless they go out of their way to block it. Periodic screenshots are rather crazy. It would be much easier to target specific keywords and patterns.

No hardware documentation whatsoever. We don’t know what registers and instructions exist at the lowest levels.

As far as I am aware, there is no way to totally shut off and verify all cellular connections made, like to pass all traffic through a logged filter.

All mobile manufacturers could be doing this too. All of the SoCs are proprietary black boxes as are the modems.

You will find this on many high end ultra fast printers. The compressor makes a lot more noise than a fan.

The Prusa MK3S+ duct is probably the best blower fan design for part cooling. The duct only barely enters the path of the exit from the blower unless the print head is on a flat surface that causes back pressure at the exit. Only then does the air get redirected through the duct in a useful way to get better coverage behind the nozzle.

I took this design and made it snap fit over the end of a blower instead of mounting it to the extruder print head. So I got to know it well.

If you know about the Reynolds number and how length and surface texture impact flow, almost all ducts and fans used in hobby printers are indeed garbage.

Water cooling is so cheap now, we should probably be using it for the extruder. I think the issue with small compressors is duty cycle. Like the ones for refrigerators is super quite but they have a low duty cycle time.

(amateur)

Also, I can make thermals irrelevant easily with a small heating element and PID loop running on a $0.50 microcontroller. Many people run such elements already to avoid issues with moisture.

Plasma sputtering is hard. I have a good vacuum pump but it is still not in this class of stuff and while I’m good at electronics, that is a project that is beyond my skills experience scope. I’m maybe more capable of the surface stuff as I come from automotive class paint perfection. While nowhere near optical precision, I have defeated myself, in that I can apply any amount of tedium required to get the job right despite the emotional toll it takes to get results.

Why not use first surface reflection so that the optical properties are irrelevant. The primary large scope is a reflective Dobsonian mounted light bucket which is a Newtonian reflector on an azimuth base. I’ve had Smith and Oakley sunglasses with great durability for the metalized coatings that have lasted a decade and a half without issues. I’ve also had some cheap ones that wiped off with soapy water well over a decade ago.

If it wasn’t so physically demanding I would absolutely try grinding my own mirror. The old school DIY technique is silvering. Surely a plasma sputtering coated polycarbonate is better than the old Brashear’s or Rochelle salt silvered mirrors.